How is the pandemic affecting fashion?

When the World Health Organization (WHO) declared COVID-19 a pandemic in March 2020, many countries demanded the closure of all non-essential businesses. From mid-March to the beginning of June 2020, most retail stores were closed and struggled to make a profit. While online shopping increased considerably during the pandemic, a report by the Business of Fashion calculates that the fashion industry could lose between €30-40 billion in sales this year. If that is the reality for big companies, it is disconcerting to imagine the impact of this turmoil on manufacturers in developing countries.

According to Forbes,

"a humanitarian crisis is unfolding in Bangladesh, with the fate of 4.1 million garment workers in the hands of western fashion brands, who have reportedly canceled over $2.8 billion in orders [...]" (Roberts Brooke, March 30th 2020).

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In fact, it is estimated that 1.2 million factory workers were affected by order cancellations, and 58% of factories had to completely shut down (Center for Global Workers' Rights). But for decades before pandemic times, most western brands have been exploiting factory workers from developing countries with the purpose of generating more profit while minimizing costs - these countries have some of the lowest wages in the world, and workers can earn an average of $96 American dollars monthly!

What will be the future of the industry, and most importantly, of these workers, if brands do not comply with their obligations with manufacturers? In developing countries, such as Bangladesh, exported goods account for a huge percentage of their economy. When orders are canceled, manufacturers cannot afford to pay their workers who, in most cases, have already put in time and effort working in producing goods.

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For the longest time consumers and, most disturbingly, the fashion brands themselves have not considered or been sensitive to the multiple stages of the industry, especially the ones regarding material sourcing, workers, working conditions and safety, workers’ compensation, workers’ access to mental and physical health care, and so on. In many countries, for the longest time, trade/labor unions were not allowed (as they are still not legal in several), and it was hard to keep control of production plants throughout the world.

As consumers, we should begin to ask ourselves how the industry does business and what the production process is behind the beautifully displayed items we see in fashion stores. Consuming habits should be reconsidered, and we should start asking retailers for more transparency when it comes to their practices. Before purchasing something, always ask yourself: Who made this? And under what conditions?

Sources: Elle.com, VogueBusiness.com, Forbes.com

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